Monday, June 21, 2010

Koya-san and stay with Buddhist monks

A little southeast from Osaka is a place called Koya-san.  This is the Buddhist center of Japan.  It's up a moutain and on the way up you see beautiful forests.  The town is quite dead, not many people, shops, or restaurants.  Plenty of Buddhist temples.  It is a nice change of pace from Tokyo and Osaka.  I love the Buddhist temples, as there are tons of open space, simple temples, and gorgeous nature.  You can't help of meditate or contemplate.  There is a serene feeling that is around, and you can't help but feel at peace. 

We stay at a Buddhist monastery called SEIKHON, right next to the OKU-NO-IN CEMETARY.  As creepy as it sounds, the cemetary was really nice to walk through.  It goes for miles, and it is in the middle of a forest.  Toward the end, there is a nice Buddhist temple.  At the monastery, we are immediately welcomed with some green tea and put to ease that they are not super strict.  We have to sit on our knees or Samurai style (which we know it as Indian style...legs crossed).  Only way of sitting they will not allow is sitting with feet facing Buddha during prayers.  The lodging is nice and Japanese style.  In the rooms are tatami matt floors, futon pads, but decked out with a nice Japanese toilet complete with seat warmer.  Although it is Japanese style, there still some modern amenities such as a safe, telephone, and television.  The food was really nice, and elaborate vegetarian meal called SHOJIN-RYORI.  We also receive a woven bracelet as a blessing.  Since they are not that stict, we are allowed to purchase beer and sake during dinner.  After dinner, I partake in the ONSEN, a nice Japanese public bath.  They are separated by gender, and you have to shower well before entering the bath.  It is filled with steaming hot water and really helps you undwind before the night's end.

Bright and early in the morning, 6:30 AM, we join the monks in prayer.  The dim room is filled with hypnotic chanting and the smell of insense.  I am glad I got to witness and partake in the prayers.  After prayers, we have a nice breakfast prepared by the monks before departing back to Osaka.

TSUKIJI FISH MARKET and OSAKA!

We tried to wake up as early as possible to make it to the infamous Tsukiji Fish Market!  We ended up there around 8AM, and things were still happening, but I hear that more of the action actually takes place earlier.  As soon as you get off the subway and walk the three blocks to the market, you see workers in tall rain boots and driving little pallet style trucks/carts.  They zoom by super fast, you have to pay attention where you are walking!  Aisles and aisles of fish mongers hawking all sorts of seafood that you can imagine.  Of course, the main item that you see is tuna, which is called "maguro."  Some of the tuna is HUGE, that you see the fish mongers butchering them down with a huge table saw. 
Adding to my "disrespect to breakfast" as Neal would call it, we indulged with some sushi at 9AM at a nearby spot called Sushi Zanmai.  We got lost trying to look for this place, but with the help of some friendly locals, we found it.  One guy even busted out the GPS on his phone to map it out for us!  We tried a lot of different fish; from tuna, sardine, halibut fin, octopus, amber jack, etc.  I guess it's nothing that you can't really get in the states, but it was pretty darn tasty.  I think my favorite was the sardine...which is a nice eco-friendly fish that I am mildly obsessed with lately. 

OSAKA
Taking the bullet train from Tokyo to Osaka is suuuuuuper easy.  It is quite expensive though, costing about $130 for a 2.5 hour trip.  The bullet train, called "shinkansen," is really fast going up to 300km/hr.  It is really easy to figure out and is really clean.  The ladies who fun the snack cart are the cutiest things ever too. 

Upon arriving in Osaka, we eat up the town.  We try "takoyaki," which are basically octopus balls.  It's a piece of octopus in the middle of a ball that is made out of a batter.  They're made almost like an ebelskiever....those danish donuts.  Takoyaki is topped with a brown sweet/savory sauce and bonito flakes.  Osaka appears to be the king of the vending machine also.  Even restaurants use vending machines!  For instance, we went to this ramen shop and the vending machine and menu is outside.  You make you selection(s) and pay for it.  It prints out a ticket for you, and you hand it to the server inside and then they make your order!  It is cheap, and incredibly convenient.  I find it very efficient and great for tourists who don't speak the language.  Maybe I'll open my own noodle shop with the same idea!  For dinner, we end up eating OKONOMIYAKI, which is a savory Japanese pancake.  It can have a variety of toppings/fillings, but usually has some sort of meat or seafood and is typically topped with a fried egg, green onion, mayonaise, and sauce (brown/sweet/savory).  Personally, I think the fried egg makes the dish.  And, I kind of have to say, I really do like the mayonaise on it.  I am not really a fan of the okonomiyaki sauce, which is a little to sweet for me.  I usually ask for no sauce when they make it because they put a ton of it on it.  They always give a side bottle of it so you can dip as little or as much of it as you want.

I got to meet up with Masa, who is a childhood friend of my friend Yuko.  He and his family lived in the states for a little bit when he was a kid, but has lived in Osaka for most of his life. He's a business man, dealing in finance.  Masa picked me up from my hotel in his buisness suit, even though it's 10PM.  Japanese work very long hours.  We went to his favorite restaurant in the Minami area of Osaka.  It's a Balinese restaurant and it is beautiful.  Ornate teak doors and furniture and a beautiful fountain outside.  We order some tropical drinks and gorgeous small plates of food.  His sister came a little later, and she was quite friendly and easy to talk to.  Both of them speak English, but his sister speaks a little more, as she used to live in Orange County. 

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Tokyo! Asians! They're everywhere!

Ok, so I pride myself in being a seasoned traveller and have a pretty good sense of direction.  I'd have to say, Tokyo is a little overwhelming!  Although, even though I don't speak Japanese, everything in Japan makes sense.  It is logical, and you can pretty much figure it out.  In general, there are a TON of people in Tokyo.  It is super busy!  The trains are packed and you just have to get used to bumping into people and making your way.

Luckily, my hotel is right across from the Shinigawa JR Station.  Shinigawa is kind of a little south from the city center, but the JR trains can take you easily anywhere.  The main line on JR (which is Japan Railways) is the Yamanote line (it's green), and is a circular line that goes around the center of Tokyo.  In addition to JR, there's the subway, which will take you to more specific stops around the city (for instance, you need to take the subway to go to Tsukiji Fish Market).  The subway map for Tokyo is INSANE.  There are so many stations and lines, you really need to use your finger and follow it to the station that you are at and want to go to. 

MATT, MY BRILLIANT COUSIN
THANK GOD, my cousin Matt lives near Tokyo.  He lives in Chiba, which is east of Tokyo, on the way to Narita Airport.  He's the scholarly type, and got a 2 year scholarship to the prestigous Waseda University.  Matt's a cousin on my Dad's side (Chinese), and he is half Chinese (with a little Japanese) and half white.  He speaks and writes Japanese fluently. 

IZIKAYA
Matt was the perfect guide to start my Japan trip off.  We went to the Meiji Shrine and took a nice stroll.  Then we went and checked out the neighborhood of Ueno.  We had lunch here, and I had my first IZIKAYA experience.  Izikaya is basically small plates and drinking.  Kind of like tapas, Japanese style.  Matt ordered a bunch of different stuff.  I guess Japanese really like their textures, and we got to taste a variety of items like tongue and cartilage.  We even got a chicken sausage, but it had little ground up bits of cartilage.  Of course, we had lunch with some beers, and I learned a very important word: "Nama," which means draft beer;)

SHINTO and BUDDHISM TOGETHER
After lunch, we walked around Ueno Park a little.  Got to see some temples and shrines.  Matt taught me that you should wash your hands (more like rinse) with the water/fountain located at the front of any Buddhist Temple.  I learned that Shintoism and Buddhism co-exist in Japan.  Japanese are very ritualistic, and practice both.  For example, weddings are traditionally Shinto, and other prayers and sorts are Buddhist.  Shinto shrines are usually noted with a red gate, or "torii."  Buddhist temples are usually minimalistic and spacious.  I find the Buddist temples a little more serene and calming.

ASAKUSA AND KAPPABASHI
Headed to the Asahi Brewing Co. after Ueno.  I was looking forward to a brewery tour/tasting, but unfortunately it is just the corporate offices.  The building itself is supposed to looks like a pint of beer, complete with head and a sort of lightening bolt.  Looks kind of funny, but hey, it can serve as a landmark.
Matt had us try "Mister Donut," which was a Japanese chain donut shop, but the donuts were incredibly light!  We tried the basic glazed, and also one that was Matcha green tea.

Walked around a little more to check out Kappabashi, which is known for it's kitchen supplies.  Unfortunately, since it was a Sunday, most everything was closed, so it was kind of a let down.  Saw lots of plastic replicas of food though.  Japanese really like to know what they are eating, and there is usually a picture or a plastic replica in the window of what the food really looks like. 

MY NEW FRIEND RIO
So, during my friend Johann's wedding in the Philippines, I met one of his friends named Rio.  Rio had been working in the Philippines for about 5 years, but then returned to Japan right when I was visiting there.  He was returning to Japan before heading off to get his MBA in Taiwan. 

At this point, I am lucky to have a friend and my cousin that speak Japanese.  It's about time to learn some Japanese on my own, just enough to get by.  Rio, Matt, and I walk around a little more and I got to see SHIBUYA, which has the famous cross walk jam packed full of people and is featured in the movie Lost in Translations.  Rio wanted to show me this one place that sold WHALE meat.  I have to admit, I really was going to try it, but backed down.  There have been some controversy about whale meat and Japanese.  In hindsight, I think I should have tried it, just to try it.  Walked to OMTE SANDO, which is a really beautiful area...tree lined streets and designer shops (Louis Vuitton, etc..)

RANDOM IZIKAYA
So, for dinner, Matt, Rio and I decide to get Izikaya in Shibuya.  We go to the 3rd floor of one building to get a little bit of a view.  This place was good, and had a lot of randomness to it.  We ordered edamame, "with performance."  The waitress comes; sings and dances, with Matt and Rio doing back up with tamborines.  When the song is done, I grab edamame with a plastic glove for us to eat.  It was quite funny and random!  Matt said he has never seen anything like this in Tokyo.  Then Rio orders a hard boiled egg "delicately peeled."  This one, the lady sings, with Rio on tamborines.  Matt is filming the entire thing, so you will see it on Facebook eventually.  At the end of the song, she smashes the golden colored egg on my forehead!  She peels it, then feeds it to me and gives me a bandaid for my forehead.  Quite the experience.  Entertaining none the less;)  Rio and I grab some sake at another place.  Got to try different kinds of sake and it was tasty! 

Good first day in Tokyo...By the end of the day,  I feel comfortable in Tokyo, and was able to navigate my way back to the hotel and around.  Thanks to Matt and Rio for showing me around and introducing me to Tokyo!

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

First impressions of Japan

Arrived late night into Narita airport on the 5th of June. Booked a couple of nights at the Shinagawa Prince hotel. Since we arrived late at night, we just booked the Airport Limousine Bus, which took us straight to our hotel. It cost 3,000 yen, and that included an all day metro pass to use the next day. Everything is really efficient in Japan. Baggage claim was a breeze, and the bus was exactly on schedule. The queue and organization was just a sneak peek of what was to come in Tokyo.

Since we arrived late night, the only thing open was McDonald's. Although I hate to admit it, I do enjoy trying the fast food chain in other countries. They always have something specific to the country. We had a Filet o Ebi (which is shrimp) and a Chicken Katsu (marinated fried chicken pattie). In the Philippines, they had an Adobo burger.

Hotel room was a little small, but big by Japanese standards. Toilets are suuper high tech, most complete with seat warmer, bidet, sanitizer, and sometimes music to mask any "sounds.". I did have an interesting incident though. Not knowing which button was to flush, I pressed the wrong button and sprayed myself in the face!! Ha. These high tech toilets are the western toilets and van be found all over the place, but squat toilets are still around in places like temples or parks.

In the morning, we stopped by a convenience stores. There is 7-11, amongst others, and have your usual items, but also an array of premade food that's is actually fresh and delicious. You can get fresh cold noodle sets/salads with soba/ramen/udon or rice balls with seaweed called "o nigiri" which translates to "hand food.". Packaging is always ingenious and is easy to open and/or comes with chopsticks, or "hashii."

Vending machines are everywhere and can contain evfy beverage imaginable from water and ice coffee to tea and vitamin drinks. Some even carry hot drinks, signified by a red label. Some vending machines sell other items like food and even toiletries, but you will mostly find beverages.

Japan is very clean. There is virtually no litter. Although, it is hard to find a trash or recycling bin, I think this somehow makes people not litter? Also, the recycling bins are extremely organized, separating everything.

For the most part, everything makes sense and is logical in Japan. Even though I don't speak Japanese, i can figure most things out...,,except for that first experience with the toilet:).

Monday, June 7, 2010

Zenses and going out in Makati

Finally, I get to see my friend Johann's restaurant. It is called Zenses and serves "neo-Shanghai cuisine." They feature some Chinese classics, but also some new twists using liquid nitrogen. Quite the show. The food is pretty good, yet I am still not sure how I feel about "cooking" with liquid nitrogen. Regardless, the food tasted good and the presentation was beautiful.



At last, I get to have an oppotunity to hang out with others (that is not my mom and my titas:) and knock back a few drinks, including a shot called the "Zenses sweater" which has Absinthe and lime. Got to hang out and see friends that I met at Johann and Isis' wedding. Good guys...thanks for hanging out Rio, Francis, and Aldrin! And of course, Johann and Isis=)

Tita Grace's Farm in Pila

My Tita Grace, who is my mom's best friend (and Tita means "auntie") just recently bought a lot of land in Pila, Philippines, where she is going to start a goat farm! I got to check it out. It is called Graco farms. They are still building and developing it, but it has a creek, kitchen, durian, rombutan, bananas, ducks, chickens, turkey and more. It will eventually have a small inn, and have goats for the production of goat milk for consumption and bath goods.

Pila is about 2-3 hours drive from Manila and is an area called Laguna. The town of Pila itself is very cute, with a quaint church, and is pretty clean. In Laguna, they are known for Buko pie, which is coconut pie. Pretty yummy stuff. They also have Espasol, which is a gummy treat that I think is made out of rice.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Singapore

I enjoyed Singapore, even though I was not sure if I was going to like it. I liked that it was so diverse with different cultures and religions. Chinese/Buddhist/Arab/Muslim/Indian/Hindu and even Australians business men. Singapore is super clean and really easy to get around. Most speak English. Like Thailand, you can find 7-11's all over the place if you ever needed water, etc.

I stayed in a hotel right next to the Singapore river, and it was really nice to walk along it. I walked all over the place to Clark Quay/Robertson Quay (which can be kind of touristy, but nicer) and Chinatown. The MRT subway was really easy to use.

CLARK QUAY/ROBERTSON QUAY
This area is right along the Singapore River and was really nice, but touristy. Lots of bars and restaurants that you see tourists and businessmen alike. It's quite pricy too, but definately worth a stop or a walk around.

CHINATOWN
I really like this Chinatown compared to others. Well, I guess it is a lot more touristy, but it is easier to digest/not feel as overwhelmed as other Chinatowns I have been in. Since it is Singapore, it is a lot cleaner. The temples are quite nice. There is a night market and a food street where you can get tons of street food. I got some shopping done here too. Also, found a really nice tea shop there where I got some delicious Jasmine teas. Another item that I got that I haven't seen anywhere else is Bakkwa. Bakkwa is BBQ meat, but more like jerky. Very delicous, and kind of on the sweet side, although you can get it spicy. Most is pork, but beef is available too.

LITTLE INDIA


Little India was really neat. I have never seen soo many Indians in one area before, and it was neat to see it. Here I ate Fish head curry, which is a Singaporean delicacy. Quite delicious, although had some reservation when offered the eye. I did in fact eat it, and after getting over the weird texture, it was good. Shopped at MUSTAFA`S, which is huge Indian department store/bazzar with anything you can possibly imagine to buy. Watches by the t0ns, toiletries, eletronics....and SPICES. I was neat to see all the different spices and flours.

ARAB STREET
I did not have too much time here, but was able to visit the Sultan Mosque and walk around a bit. Not much was open, maybe because it was a Sunday

SHOPPING
Tons of malls, and huge ones at that. It was not really my style, but I did enjoy going to Takashimaya, which is a Japanese department store. The food level had tons of neat options including Kaya toast (which is like a coconut and leaf jam with butter and bread), bakkwa, teas, and other delicious treats like durian!

HAWKERS AND SATAY STREET
I almost forgot to mention THE best eating in Singapore. They are called Hawkers, and are basically street food centers. Went to one that is called Satay street, where it is all the best Satay in Singappore. Most is served with the Satay sauce (kind of a bbq peanut sauce), pickled veg like radish, and rice cake (a smooth, gummy kind). I also ate THE BEST fresh Japanese style noodles here. They were made fresh to order. The dough was made, but the lady had a machine that rolled and cut the pasta. I had it served with some light soy sauce, green onions and dumplings. Also good was the chili crab. Fresh crab with a thick sweet chili sauce. Very spicy still, and dont forget to ask for a lot of napkins!!!

KOPITIAM
Finally, for the refreshment stop, you go to a Kopitiam. This are technically cafes, but range from a nice cafe to a beverage station. You can get all sorts of drinks here, and even previously mentioned Kaya tost.